“The world is a book and those who
do not travel read only one page.” – said St.
Augustine.
I took this quote to heart which prompts me to move
every now and then. “To awaken quite alone in a strange town is of the
pleasantest sensation in the world.” Who said that? Freya Stark, first Western to journey through
regions of Middle East. She died at the age of 100 with a smile on her face.
COASTAL HIGHWAY ENDING AT GWADAR |
I am a chicken at heart. I take
extra precautions before traveling. There is no such thing as a safe place.
When I wanted to go to Gwadar, first I went to the intercity bus
terminal and inquired about the safety conditions from bus drivers, passengers,
vendors, hawkers and hucksters. On getting a good feedback, I decided to go
some day. The break came only last week. I took a shoulder bag, re-checked the
situation and boarded a night bus bound for Gwadar, about 770 km away. It was a
good ride but because of security checks and other stoppages, it took 12 hours
to reach the destination.
The dawn was breaking when the bus
entered the limits of the city. I asked the driver to drop me at Islamabad Hotel which was on the roadside. This
assured safety as travelers often run into troubles by depending on touts or
cabbies. I got a room for Rs.1,200 equivalent to US$ 15 and slept like a log.
Walking
Safari
After sleeping for few hours, I
showered and changed, had a light lunch and was ready to explore the city just
by walking around. My first task was to look for the famous Gwadar
Tourist Hotel. Seeking direction from a police constable, I found it
right on the beach. I met the manager, nicknamed as Bablu, and got a firm
booking for the next day for US $ 15 per night. Later, I asked Bablu for
direction to Pearl
Continental Hotel and he said, ”Better take rickshaw or turn right,
go straight towards rock and ask for the hotel once there.”
When I came out of the hotel and
stepped on the road, I could see at a far distance a cliff shinning under the
bright sun. A metalled road was going straight towards it. It was like a dream
come true as I love un-interrupted walks irrespective of the distances. It was
windy with sand yet cool which added to my delight.
Stroll
by the sea-side
Walking on the road, I felt like
strolling on a marine drive. It was flanked by Arabian Sea and a row of small
shops & offices though not of art deco buildings. I watched boys playing
cricket on the beach, their yellow shirts mingling well with the blue water in
the background, their shouts outsmarting the splashes of the sea. I passed by
an open yard where dhows were being repaired. The carpenters were using their
fingers to smear epoxy on the wooden seams of the hulls. There being no
electricity, holes were being drilled manually. Next I saw a stunning sight like
donkeys charging out of water and onto the sand, pulling creaky carts loaded
with fish hauled from the boats. But I was afraid that the modernization would
soon wipe them out of their traditional life.
Soon I was hearing the explosions
created by mighty waves banging the cliff and I thanked my stars that the hotel
was just at the corner. To confirm, I asked an army ranger how far it was and
he dampened my hopes by saying, “yet a long way, take a rickshaw”. This was
oft-repeated advice. I felt humiliated as if I was incapable of reaching there
using my two legs. I thanked him and resumed my walk but felt heavy feet.
Nearby was a shop selling soft drinks, Iranian juices and biscuits. I thought
it prudent to take a rest and asked for an ice-cold 7-Up Can, sat on a chair
facing the sea to enjoy the fabulous view. After finishing the drink in slow
motions, I resumed my walk. It was surprising to see a large number of branches
of the banks besides offices of real-estate dealers. There were billboards and
wall-hangings offering villas, bungalows and plots in Golden Palms, West Bay, East Bay and Garden City
of Gwadar. But the business seemed dull as the boom had busted.
The
Cliff
Beach Road with Hammerhead Cliff in the backdrop |
Soon I was near the cliff known as
"Hammerhead Cliff". It was a piece of
mountain said to be 10 km long, two km wide and about 200 meters high. But no
hotel was in sight. It was yet 3 km away and I was again advised by the
passerby to take a rickshaw. I refused as usual but soon realized that I was
overdoing it. The symptoms were already there: muscular pains, sounds from
cracking and grinding joints. I stayed put and moved on. Eventually, I saw the
hotel atop the cliff and a winding road going up there. It was too much and I
decided to take an auto rickshaw. Through a hard bargain, I brought the charges
down to 3-dollar for going up and down with one-hour wait and dropping me at my
hotel about 8 km away.
An
Oasis in the Desert
Zaver Pearl Continental Hotel
credit: http://www.flickr.com/sarfrazh/
|
Zaver Pearl Continental Hotel at Gwadar is a five
star hotel located on the cliff with 120 guest rooms, dining halls and a
business center. It has mosaic marble flooring creating an element of surprise
in an otherwise dusty town. Since I was dead tired, I headed straight for the
coffee shop, picked up cheapest of the cheap deals of 2-dollar Espresso Coffee
and biscuits. The aroma, the taste, the ambiance and, above all a panoramic
view of the Arabian Sea had soothing effects on me. It reminded me of Natasha Attwood who
said:
Oh weary traveler; when will you
rest?
Will you not stop awhile and rest your tired bones?
Your skin battered by the Wind,
Scorched by the Sun,
Softened by the Rain.
Will you not stop awhile and rest your tired bones?
Your skin battered by the Wind,
Scorched by the Sun,
Softened by the Rain.
Gwadar
Bazaar
I had come to Gwadar on a night bus
and did not see the terrain. So on the last day my main task was to look for a
bus or van going back during day time. With little efforts and queries, I was
able to locate terminal of Sajadi Van. Though it was not comfortable like
luxury bus I traveled with before but was the only option. I booked a seat for
4th April, 2010 paying Rs.1,000 or around US$ 12 per person.
Now I had ample time to explore the
markets or bazaars. There was nothing but small old shops with winding streets.
Surprisingly, there was good presence of Pathans dealing in electronic goods.
There were few persons wearing Jalaba and turban probably from the nearby
country, the Sultanate of Oman.
The sun was setting in the
outstretched horizon and the whole surrounding was looking as if it had been
painted in crimson.
An
evening on the beach
SOLAR PANELED STREET LIGHTS |
I returned to hotel, had lunch and
slept for a while. In the evening, I sat under a thatched hut to enjoy the sea.
The water had receded, the sea bed had become dry and more people were walking
towards the distant water. I hardly noticed the sky changing color when the sun
was about to set in. I grabbed my camera and captured sunset across the deep
blue water. As the sun went down, solar-paneled street lights went up adding to
the charm. Just behind me were local musicians singing songs in Baluchi with a
variety of instruments like sarod, narr and a double flue called Doneli.
Mekran
Coastal Highway
Mekran Coastal Highway, 653 km |
This is a 653 km long highway
labeled as N–10, which joins N -25 or RCD Highway originating from Karachi at
118 km. Thus the distance between Gwadar to Karachi is 771. Mekran Coastal
Highway is two-lane metalled road. Most of the time, the road follows a
straight path and is one can drive over 100 km per hour. Previously there was a
muddy track. It could take several days in travel. Now the time has reduced to
six hours. The route turns scenic when the road hugs the Arabian Sea about five
times.
With the opening of this road, a
dusty fishing village like Gwadar has turned into a bustling city with a modern
seaport, airport and a five-star hotel. A desalination plants provides drinking
water while powers comes from the neighboring Iran. The region was about to
take-off like Dubai but recent political problems in the country have slowed
down the pace.
ORMARA
On the way back, the van stopped
near Ormara for lunch. Ormara is a small port located on the Mekran
coastline along the Arabian Sea, about 450 kilometers west of Karachi. It has a
naval base and an airport for use of short haul air crafts like Fokker and
Cessna.
The eating place was nothing but a
mud hut. Despite this, I enjoyed its dishes as these were made from good
quality rice and lentil called “daal”. Chicken and mutton curries were also
available. Besides, one can buy all international brands of mineral water and
soft drinks.
The area was the poorest of the poor
regions in Pakistan. I could see some people sitting outside the café. They
represented a picture of gloom: their mouths dry, their bodies weak, their
pockets empty. I asked the hotelier if I could offer them some foods. He
discouraged me as, according to him, more & more would hover around in
hope of the dole.
BUZI
PASS
The best part of the journey was
passing through a 75-km Buzi Pass. The van twisted and turned upward
around the hairpin bends. There were mountains and rocks all around the road.
These were not of granite but of mud formed by the wind and water. At 1,000
feet above the sea level, there were breathtaking views of blue water on one
side and grandeur of majestic mountains on the other side. The way the sun
illuminated those mountains was a sight to see.
Princess of Hope |
Some of the rocks looked as if they
had been carved out by the skilful sculptors. One looked like a lady
standing upright in a royal pose. It was named as “Princess of Hope” by Angelina Jolie during her trip to this area.
There was another formation called Sleeping Beauty beside a lion head looking
like Sphinx of Cairo.
The winding road kept opening up
panoramic vistas. Every turn on the Buzi pass revealed magnificent rock
patterns. There were many geological wonders like mud volcanoes. In fact world highest known mud
volcano was reportedly located nearby with a height of 100 meters. The mud
oozing out was said to be not hot but cool.
Soon after the Buzi Pass, I asked
the driver to stop the van at the Bridge of River Hingol as I wanted to go
to Hinglaj, the most sacred pilgrim place for Hindus. I got down for few hours
before returning to Karachi.